Author Topic: Cambelt change (Read 9696 times)

smithymc · « **on:** February 17, 2013, 10:57:19 AM »

Sorry in advance for another very basic one.

I can apparently do the job without a locking kit, but just a simple starting point:-

Do I set Nr 4 cylinder at tdc or on 10deg timing mark if I want everything to stay in one place?

Thanks.

Mark

HFStuart · « **Reply #1 on:** February 17, 2013, 06:05:55 PM »

If you're just changing the cambelt then it doesn't really matter where you set it as you can make up the various pulleys with tipex before taking the old one off. So long as it's all in the same position when the new one goes back on all should be OK.

Starting from scratch though or if you suspect the existing timing is out then you should set the piston to TDC.

rossocorsa · « **Reply #2 on:** February 17, 2013, 06:22:46 PM »

Be careful to correctly line up the pulley for the auxiliary drive

lukasdeopalenica · « **Reply #3 on:** February 18, 2013, 09:46:59 AM »

I strongly reccommend to set all pulley markings, as it is really easy to move just one of four, espiecially when doing it for the first time.

smithymc · « **Reply #4 on:** February 20, 2013, 11:27:08 AM »

Thanks for the replies all.

I will see how we get on.

Mark

Thotos · « **Reply #5 on:** February 20, 2013, 01:13:33 PM »

Quote from: lukasdeopalenica on February 18, 2013, 09:46:59 AM

I strongly reccommend to set all pulley markings, as it is really easy to move just one of four, espiecially when doing it for the first time.

I'd second that; the markings are there for a good reason so use them. It's true that you can set your own markings anywhere and as long as nothing moves you'll be fine but might as well use all the markings that are there for you. Number 4 cylinder should be at TDC and there's a mark on the crankshaft pulley for this. And don't forget to order a new set of knuckles for you as you're bound to loose some

(or have lots of plasters handy

) I always scrape off quite a few of my knuckles when changing the belt on my Trevi

archigraphe · « **Reply #6 on:** February 20, 2013, 03:38:34 PM »

Quote from: rossocorsa on February 17, 2013, 06:22:46 PM

Be careful to correctly line up the pulley for the auxiliary drive

+1

Thotos · « **Reply #7 on:** February 20, 2013, 04:07:16 PM »

Quote from: archigraphe on February 20, 2013, 03:38:34 PM

Quote from: rossocorsa on February 17, 2013, 06:22:46 PM
Be careful to correctly line up the pulley for the auxiliary drive

+1

+2

There's no proper mark on the idler shaft pulley so make sure you add one. Be careful not to move it as it'll move the distributor and the ignition timing will be out. It's a good idea to always check and if necessary reset the ignition timing after changing the timing belt.

smithymc · « **Reply #8 on:** August 15, 2020, 07:27:31 PM »

Just something to ponder over a Saturday evening tipple.

I have come to change the belt having realised how old it is, and looked again at the Haynes method.

Odd thing is that the hole on the aux pulley is nowhere near where Haynes says it should be, with the cam wheels in the right place on the pointers - only the hole tippexed in mine and I have white dots everywhere from previous efforts, which I doubt there have been many of. The last one was by my usual garage where the car was trailered to on rescue.

Any thoughts?

Mark

rossocorsa · « **Reply #9 on:** August 15, 2020, 09:09:47 PM »

This is S1 but I think principle is the same, I think I recall yours is a1600? The timing is more critical on a 2000 however I have wondered if there is some sort of timing of the pulse on the fuel pump (seems unlikely)

https://www.amazon.co.uk/photos/share/1UZx4O9du9SIMOIS7dlbjWfwCHumAQkam7lWqdWNb4T

smithymc · « **Reply #10 on:** August 15, 2020, 10:09:50 PM »

Thanks very much - I’ll have a study tomorrow.

Cheers

Mark

WestonE · « **Reply #11 on:** August 16, 2020, 11:20:09 AM »

Start with the crank at TDC and everything should be on the factory marks. Have good clear marks lining up for the crank and the Aux DS MUST be lined up.
If you miss time the Aux DS the fuel pump lobe will hit number 2 conrod and it will not be long before the conrod breaks forcing a major re-build!

Take you time and you will be fine.

Eric

smithymc · « **Reply #12 on:** August 16, 2020, 12:19:50 PM »

Thanks Eric

It’s just with mine at tdc the aux timing hole is miles off but the engine clearly has no interference. Is then more than one sweet spot on the Aux rotation?

If I move it to line with the clamp mounting bolt as per the book, wont it throw the timing out?

Mark

WestonE · « **Reply #13 on:** August 16, 2020, 03:03:16 PM »

Hi Mark

I suspect someone has changed the pulley in the past. There is a surprising variety. If it works now keep it in that position exactly.

Eric

smithymc · « **Reply #14 on:** August 16, 2020, 05:28:50 PM »

Eric

That was pretty much my thinking- someone has perhaps done it by trial and error in the past and if the thing has managed its 6000 rpm repeated dyno runs like that, all is well inside!

Cheers

Mark

rossocorsa · « **Reply #15 on:** August 16, 2020, 08:00:16 PM »

I'm not going to put my life on this but I think the following is the answer.......

Whether the rod with hit the pump lobe is dependent upon the stroke of the crank, early 1592 and 1756 had 79.2mm and the 1995 had 90mm which meant there was interference in all these sizes. The 1297, 1301, 1366, 1438 and later 1585 have a 71.5mm stroke which is short enough not to cause an issue. As the chocolate lime is a second series it will have a 1585 motor (even if the V5 states 1592) so the position of the pulley doesn't matter. My guess would be that it has at some time had a lucky escape when a belt change was done, if it had been a 2 litre the block would have received a nice hole. Presumably at subsequent belt changes the mechanics copied the existing pulley position so it carried on.......... That's my guess but I'm not 100% if that is right or not.

From what I can gather the exact timing to the nearest micron of this pulley is not super critical, on cars where it interferes it is essential that the lobe is up rather than down when the piston is at or near the top of its travel, again my supposition I'd need to study this on an actual block to be absolutely right

WestonTB · « **Reply #16 on:** August 17, 2020, 06:30:02 PM »

Yep, that sounds correct to me, i.e. pay great attention with the 2.0 litre , relax slightly with the 1585.
Luckily mine (1585) has the yellow paint still in place and as I inherited a 2.0 litre (in the spider) with the Aux pulley a couple of teeth out I line all the yellow dots up, check at least ten times, turning over with the 38mm socket until I am confident!

May also be worth starting minus fuel/spark then check tension/alignment again before putting fire in the hole, that safety feature saved my 8v grale when the inlet cam seized and the belt slipped

.

smithymc · « **Reply #17 on:** August 18, 2020, 07:59:23 AM »

Thanks for the info.

Having pondered it, I like Rossoscorsa's theory of someone having 'got away with it' and then that being copied - I can think of the long term owner as a potential culprit- a brilliant mechanic, but he wouldn't look at a book I'm pretty sure unless he had a real problem! He would have done it so that it worked and that would have been fine.

Mark

fred2660 · « **Reply #18 on:** August 18, 2020, 10:55:23 PM »

I did it lately and made a video of

https://youtu.be/6vx9JgwGbms

mtulloch · « **Reply #19 on:** November 30, 2020, 04:41:20 PM »

Can someone please confirm the torque settings for the 17mm & 13mm bolts on the belt tensioner? Car is a VX.
Cheers.

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Author Topic: Cambelt change (Read 9696 times)